Date: 24 Apr 2005 17:55:45 -0000
Hey there all. We are safely anchored in Bahia Del Sol, El
Salvador.
As expected, we had good conditions crossing of the Gulf of
Tehuantepec. Winds were light, but we still managed to sail about
half the way. When we had wind, it was a comfortable 10-15 knots
out of the west or southwest, providing several days of really
nice spinnaker runs. The seas were very comfortable, with a high,
but very long period SW swell that you almost didn't notice. We
did have to dodge a few squalls with lightning (seen hitting the
water!) on the night watch off the coast of Guatemala, but they
show up on radar quite well, so this isn't that difficult. Still,
one we could not avoid as it pinned us against the shoreline and
we spent an hour or so in a downpour with lightning flashing all
around. Exciting to be sure and the decks got a good washing! We
found out later that another vessel spotted two water spouts in
the same area that night!
We arrived outside of Baia del Sol Friday afternoon, too late
to catch the afternoon high tide to cross the entrance bar, and so
anchored outside the breakers for the evening. From our vantage
spot, we watched the swells that we had barely noticed in the
deeper water heap up and turn into big, square, ugly, 12-14 foot
monsters as they broke on the shallow entrance bar, working
against the opposing tide rushing out of the bay. We had to
re-anchor farther offshore in deeper water twice as the tide
dropped and the breakers moved out towards us.
For those still headed south behind us, the way point being
passed around for anchoring outside Bahia del Sol (13 16.6N 88
53.6W) IS INCORRECT. The shoal area has moved south and this
position is now too close to the breakers. As the tide drops, you
will find yourself with breaking seas almost on top of you if you
stay there. You want to be another 0.3 miles south in at least 40
feet of water. We ended up anchoring at 13 16.3N 88 53.7W and
spent the night quite comfortably.
Five other boats arrived over the next 20 hours or so, most of
the 9 other vessels we had departed with on Tuesday from Hautulco,
and on Saturday afternoon the six of us crossed the bar into Bahia
Del Sol. Crossing this bar is an exercise in probability. There is
no channel. The waves break across the entire breath of the
entrance. You basically just keep your stern to the seas and hope
a big wave doesn't catch you in the wrong spot. It's a long story,
which we will relate in full on the web site, but in short we got
unlucky and got smacked on the stern by an extra large wave which
bent the stern pulpits and filled the cockpit with water. No one
was hurt, but we took some water below through the vents in the
hatch boards before the cockpit had drained. Nothing too serious
and the kids took it in stride, but we will be cleaning up for
several days. Of the other boats, 4 made it through without
incident, but the fifth had a wave fill their dingy (hanging on
davits) and essentially rip their davits off their stern. Suffice
it to say that we will be sure to pick the calmest of days for our
departure!
Anyway, besides being a little wet and salty, all is well.
There are a lot of vessels here, lots to explore and the bay
(really more of a long, narrow estuary) is calm and protected.
Check in to the country was about as easy as one could imagine -
the officials come out to the boat in a launch, take your
passports and you pick them up at the hotel here later in the day,
stamped with a 90 day visa. No fees, no hassle. Mexico this is
not! It is a bit hot and humid here however. We've seen
temperatures above 100F in the cockpit over the last few days and
the humidity here is quite high. At night, squalls with rain and
lightning pass overhead, washing the boat down at night and adding
to the humidity. Everything is dripping, even without all the
saltwater in the boat!
We will likely be here for most of a month with trips planned
inland to Guatemala and to San Salvador. Look for a web site
update in a week or so, once we get the lay of the land and find
an internet cafe. As always, we would love to hear from you!
Fair winds and following seas! (though may they be small
following seas when crossing bars!)
S/V Sula
Hallberg-Rassy 53 - 45
www.sulaadventures.com