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Greetings all! As I'm sure you know, we are
on a 10 week trip aboard our sailboat, 'Sula' from Seattle to
Southeast Alaska and back. You are on our mailing list because
you either expressed an interest in being kept up to date with
our adventures or in a few cases, we just wanted to rub it in so
it we added you anyway!
We have been keeping a running, daily log of
our trip to date. The contents of this message come largely
from that log with additional commentary thrown in here and
there. It's not supposed to be the most readable thing, but it
should give you a good blow by blow summary of what we have been
up to over the last few weeks. There are a few pictures
attached - we'll do a better job in the next update.
Cheers,
Eric, Melissa, RJ and Kelsey
Sula Log
Friday, June 23 Elliot Bay Marina
Packing, stowing and
 more
stowing!!! Melissa has been packing and putting things away for
weeks and there is still so much more to go! We are going to
leave tomorrow with boxes of stuff still lying around on the
cabin sole. Eric finally finished his last review at work this
morning, so he is finally done with work stuff - for the Summer
at least. A few friends joined us this evening for a little
send-off get together. Thanks guys for the good wishes and for
eating a ton of sushi with us!
Saturday, June 24 Port Ludlow, WA
(19NM) The beginning of our journey, a short trip today
with no wind. We celebrated Father's day at Melissa's parent's
house with her parents, 'Marmit & Pops' and her family. They
gave us a very nice 2-person inflatable Kayak as a bon voyage
gift!- thanks guys! We have not had a chance yet to inflate it,
but we are looking forward to using it in Glacier Bay!
Additionally, Marmit sent 4 rolls of frozen gingerbread cookie
dough, with instructions to bake them every Wed, so RJ can get
his fix! Thanks for everything guys!
Sunday, June 25 Friday Harbor Marina, WA
(38NM) Fresh scones and a good-bye to Mel's parents in the
morning and we are off to Friday Harbor. We've done this trip a
few times with the kids, so this is old hat for the kids. The
strait of Juan De Fuca was flat calm, which is typical for this
time of year and so again we motored the whole way. We tied up
in the marina next to the Odyssey. It is a 90ft Sparks and
Stephan Yawl used by the Sea Scouts to train Boy Scouts. Eric
took a tour, and then invited the Capitan and a few scouts over
to our boat for a tour. The Odyssey is a large, beautiful boat
from time gone by - it has some huge overhangs you don't really
see on today's hull designs, so below deck its not really that
much larger than Sula. Built in 1938, it was originally a
privately owned pleasure yacht which included a heated running
salt water bath tub and piano! After 2 years, the Navy took it
over for submarine patrol duty off the East Coast, ripped
out the piano and painted over the teak decks. When the war was
over, the original owners didn't want it back in that condition,
so the Navy kept it as a sail training vessel until it was
donated to the scouts in the 70s. Meanwhile, the kids visited
their old friend, 'Popeye' the harbor seal who hangs out at the
local fish market and pigs out on the salmon scraps. The kids
fished a bit and caught a few shrimp. The Weather was very warm!
Monday, June 26 Montague Harbor,
Galiano Island, CAN (28NM) It feels more like this trip
has started because we are further north than we have been
before in this boat and now we are in Canadian waters. We
cleared customs at Bedwell Harbor and had lunch. Off again
around 3pm, the winds picked up for a while, but died down
right when we were about to make to sail, so Mel went trolling
for salmon instead! No luck there either unfortunately.
Montague Harbor was a great stop for the kids to run around. RJ
spent a few hours hunting for crab's. "Look Mom there's a
million under this one"
Tuesday, June 27 Pirate's Cove, De
Courcy Island, CAN (19NM)
We departed Montague Harbor late due to a lazy morning and
another romp and crab hunt at the beach, but that let the
afternoon wind build and we sailed in 10 kt winds through Pulier
Pass. The kids are doing great. They have yet to ask when are
they going home, and are very interested in the type of beach or
town we will visit next. We anchored with a stern line
ashore in Pirate's cove, choosing a more sheltered area than the
last time we were here where we had a little midnight excitement
when the wind came up. There were several other boats here, but
not nearly as crowded as we have seen it. We rowed ashore with
the kids who played at the beach and rocks and got all
wet. They seem to love the cold water! Kelsey has started a
shell collection, RJ wanted to collect sticks but they are not
allowed on the boat. It was an incredible red sunset!
Wednesday, June 28 Powell River,
Westview Marina, CAN (50NM) We started early this morning
while the kids slept. It was very quiet and peaceful. We are
starting to see more eagles. We sailed for a few hours while in
the Strait of Georgia. We also had great cell coverage and made
a few calls. Eric actually got a call from work!? When the
winds died Mel trolled some more, still no fish! We arrived in
Powell river around 3:30, they had great dock assistance! We
did the town, and had a pizza dinner. Eric was reliving the
dinners he used to eat when he was crewing on his dad's boat as
a kid. The pizza seamed bigger, but the town hasn't changed
much. We had a pretty strong wind blow in the night - where was
that wind when we needed it?
Thurs 29 & Fri 30 June, Prideaux Haven,
Desolation Sound CAN (24NM) Mel and Eric took turns
running in the morning at Powell River, did laundry, went to the
bakery (so much for the run) and took the kids to the park. We
topped off the fuel and water and off we went to Desolation
Sound. We didn't have any wind today but the weather and
scenery was incredible. We anchored in Prideaux Haven, a stop
we had made in the past and will return to again, very
picturesque. Our grand adventure took a quick spin shortly after
we arrived. Mel was so looking forward to putting the Kayak in
the water when she made the terrible mistake of picking up the
slack in the anchor chain that quickly shot her hand into the
roller. Needless to say, her finger was crushed. Eric lifted
off the chain and with one quick look all Mel could say was
"it's bad, it's bad". A fellow boater who we met in Powell
River showed up just then and we sent him to the other boats, in
search of a doctor. Meanwhile Eric got on the radio, and as
quick as could be (20 minutes) 3 Coast Guard Personnel were on
our boat. They looked and advised Mel take a fun ride on their
speedy boat to Lund and then a taxi to the hospital in Powell
River. RJ was jealous and thought it would be fun to go. So,
Eric packed a bag and off at 42kts to Lund Melissa went. A taxi
to the hospital, and 3 hours after this unfortunate incident a
doctor was numbing Mel's finger (Thank God!) Five stitches, a
splint (it was indeed broken) and a supply of Tylenol 3 w/codine
(the pharmacy was closed for the stronger drugs) and Mel was
getting back in the taxi for Lund. The water taxi was
closed, about ready to check in to the new (only) 20 room hotel,
that opened last week, she called the Coast Guard guys to tell
them how she was and managed to bum a ride back to Prideaux
Haven!. WHAT SERVICE!!! CHEERS FOR THE CANADIAN COAST GUARD!!!
We gave them a package of Lemon Frosted Cookies as a thank you!
(That's all they would take!) The next day, we decided to stay
put so Mel could recover a bit. Eric took the kids on little
adventures, Mel made it to one. Lots of rock climbing.
Saturday, July 1 Bickley Bay, East
Thurlow Island CAN (37NM) We were very glad to have Eric's
mom Joan join us at Refuge Cove as our first guest. With Mel
playing the one-handed wonder, the timing was perfect. We
picked up a few fresh veg's and off we went. We proceeded up
Calm Channel, dodging lots of logs in the water. When we passed
through Dent rapids we were joined by 10-15 Bald and Golden
Eagles fishing off the bow. It was another quiet evening. We
were anchored by ourselves but woke to another sailboat and a
very large barge and tugboat who had joined us during the early
morning, waiting for slack water.
Sunday, July 2 Port Harvey between E & W Cracroft Islands
CAN (40NM) We made a stop in Blind Channel enroot
today. It is a well run resort (it should be noted that the
term 'resort' is applied rather generously in these waters).
We topped off the fuel tanks and picked up some fresh baked
bread! They had a great hike that led us to a 800+ year old
snag that was hollow at the base. The kids thought it was
great to be inside a tree. Then a bit further was an 800+
year old living tree. Joan played tag with the kids, wore
them (and her) out a little. When we entered Johnstone
Straight the winds picked up and hit 19 knots, but it was from
the SW on the nose and we were late, so we didn't sail. The
seas were 1-3 ft, and Mel did a bow watch because of the
number of logs in the water. The anchorage was very calm but
not as pretty due to clear cutting operations.
Monday, July 3 Echo Bay, Windsong Marina, Gilford Island
CAN (32NM) This is another "resort". We tied up to the
dock of the floating 'Windsong Sea Village' (think of a
kinder, gentler Waterworld without the jet skis and Kevin
Costner). There were several floating homes, a bakery, and a
gallery featuring the talents of local artisans. We took the
kids to the local school (a double wide trailer) that schools
5 kids. They played at the play ground and we all played
tag. Eric did Kelsey's hair into a "Princess, Barbie,
Ballerina Braid" (Mel won't be braiding for a while) and RJ
made friends with Stephan (the bakery owners son). They
played legos on the dock for a couple of hours before we
departed. Joan picked up more fresh baked bread and some
pastries - what a treat. And even though it wasn't Wednesday,
Mel made RJ gingerbread cookies.
Tuesday, July 4 Sullivan Bay, N. Broughton
Is. CAN (12NM) It was a quick day today, just 12 miles.
We heard that everyone was going to Sullivan Bay for the 4th of
July party. It is pretty much the Windsong Sea Village's big
brother - a much larger community of floating homes with almost
a mile of floating walkways and docks. Some homes were quite
elegant while others needed some repair. The docks were nearly
full. As it turns out there was a perfect spot open on the dock
that paralleled the homes and was right across from the exact
home where the 4th of July party was to be held. Shortly after
we arrived a live band started to play. They were quite good.
Kelsey and RJ began to dance on the deck and distracted all the
people listening to the band. The band members commented "so
you have all heard of Hula dancers, now we have the SULA
dancers!" It was very funny! The kids put on their 4 of July
flag shorts, shirts and hats and off we went to the party. It
was a BBQ and dinner dance. Kelsey danced up a storm. One man
asked her for her autograph and she promptly wrote her name on
the paper tablecloth. It was a very fun night. We also met the
part owners of Elliott Bay Marina (our landlords). Joan watched
the kids so we could stay and dance for a while. Then when it
finally got dark at 11pm they did a very impressive fireworks
show! We did not expect such a celebration in Canada and had a
great time. The following morning as we were passing all the
guests they all commented about our little dancer girl.
Wednesday, July 5 Blunden Harbor,
Mainland, CAN (34NM) It was a bit foggy this morning as
we made our way to drop off Joan in Greenway Sound. Joan was a
huge help w/cooking, the kids and dishes. As well she was great
moral support during bandage changing. We hope for more sailing
on her second leg with us at the end of July. At Greenway SOund,
we bid Joan goodbye and picked up Deanna, Mel's friend
from college! After some laundry (at $7.00 a load!), the
kids grabbed some ice cream and off we went! Deana took three
rolls of film during the first few hours and is in tough
competition w/Joan for most pictures taken. Once anchored Eric
took the kids ashore to some Indian village remains, Deana & Mel
made dinner and did the crab dance! Which means we caught a
legal crab!
Thursday, July 6 Fury Cove, Penrose Is.
CAN (40NM) Departed early in some fog. The sun was trying
to burn through & the rollers began once we got out into Queen
Charlotte Strait. RJ was our first sea sickness victim. He
fell asleep after awhile and Kelsey did too - out of sympathy we
think. They needed a nap! When they awoke RJ was feeling much
better. We were able to sail again for awhile. It's nice to
have the engine off for a bit. Fury cove is beautiful! All we
need are a few palm trees and it could be the tropics. There is
a great crushed shell beach and lots of rocks for the kids to
climb on. Two girls who are far from being fisherwoman managed
to clean the crab and we had steak and crab for dinner! It was
awesome! Another calm night! This was the most crowded
anchorage yet but we will be back!
Friday, July 7 Lagoon Cove, Cunningham
Is. CAN (51NM) Another warm day! The waters were much
smoother today- We went through Fisher Channel and the kids
played on deck with Deana. We are by ourselves here n Lagoon
Cove. Eric took the kids on an adventure. They saw some rapids
but could not go over in the dingy. We caught a bunch of crab
but none were legal. Mel and Deana took the kids back to the
rapids and were able to cross as it was slack tide. The lagoon
was quite large and on our return to the boat we saw a bear!!
We were glad we were on the Boat.
Saturday, July 8 Oliver Bay, Don
Peninsula, CAN (25NM) Departed Lagoon Cove for Shearwater
for fuel and provisions before moving on. Shearwater has great
facilities but the flies were huge and obnoxious! We got what
we needed then Mel and Deana took the kids for a walk to the
local school playground so Eric could work on the watermaker.
They were exhausted after about 15 minutes and we radioed that
they had to get back to the boat before they were eaten alive
(by flies)! We took a spin by Bella Bella another marina
facility close by to see what it offered but didn't stop.
We had an outdoor BBQ tonight! The weather has still been
great. Mel took out 4 of 5 stitches! Finger is on the mend.
 Sunday,
July 9 Windy Bay, Pooley Island, CAN (45NM) - A day that
turned out Beautiful! We were expecting the weather to change
and woke to thick clouds that burned off around 1pm! We had
enough wind to sail for a couple of hours even with our
waterfall detours! Deana took 36 pictures of the Fjordland
Waterfall to include pictures of Melissa and RJ getting misted
just 20 feet from the fall in 150 feet of water!! In all Deana
took 3 rolls of film today! We saw several waterfalls, Eagles
and a point with at least 15 seals on it and one fuzzy baby that
we saw plop into the water as we sailed by! We anchored in
Windy Bay by ourselves at first with a joiner late that turned
out to be the parents of a girl Mel went to high school with.
Eric took the kids to explore while Mel and Deana made dinner
and caught a huge crab! They did the Crab dance again! So Crab
for dinner, with shrimp, rice and salad! Eric and RJ caught a
few dog fish! We will catch a salmon yet!
Monday, July 10 Bishop Bay Hot Springs
Mainland CAN (56NM) Departed Windy Bay early so we could
take advantage of the hot springs. It was very calm. We are
seeing more and more clear cutting near the water. It wouldn't
be so bad if it wasn't so ugly until the trees grew back in. Saw
another beautiful waterfall on Princess Royal Island. We went
to investigate the Butedale falls and found a dilapidated
cannery that is now privately owned. Many of the buildings
have been destroyed due to lack of care and the weather. One
building on the pier was cracked in half and looked as though it
could topple into the water at any time. There was a dive
boat exploring a wreck just off shore (burr!) We arrived in
Bishop Bay around 1:30. As we were stern tying a group of river
otters were spotted fishing. We packed our towels and soap and
off to the springs. The water was very comfortable 102
degrees. We had a very relaxing soak. After dinner Deana
offered to watch the kids so we could have a date and back to
the springs for Mel and Eric. We placed our boat logo on the
wall with names and date -we will see if anyone recognizes us!
Tuesday, July 11 Lowe Inlet, Nettle Basin,
Verney Falls, Mainland CAN (43NM) Our departure from Bishop
Bay was spectacular with a school of Dahl's Porpoises playing.
They were right at the boat for a short time. The kids thought
it was "so cool" . It was a longer day than we were planning
with a trip north around Gribbell Island. We then proceeded NW
through Grenville Channel. We slowed down for Eric to troll
while Mel and Deana planned our navigation through Venn
Passage. Eric caught a salmon aprox 10 lbs but the tackle broke
just before we could net him. So it was smoked chicken
enchiladas for dinner. Mel made Eric's extra hot so he wouldn't
let the fish get away next time! After fishing the wind picked
up enough to sail for about 1 1/2 hours. We arrived and
anchored just off of Verne Falls about 6 PM. The salmon were
jumping and the Eagles flying high! We ate and then went for a
short hike to the falls, through a rain forest. We were ringing
the bear bells all the way! The falls were beautiful but the
knats were annoying so we headed back to the boat and off to
bed! Just prior to turning in for the night we were joined by
the first Hallberg-Rassy on this trip the Elan - an HR39
skippered by Mike Banias. He was heading from Juneau to Seattle.
Wednesday, July 12 Prince Rupert Yacht
Club, Prince Rupert CAN (47NM)
 We
departed early this morning in light rain and fog. It was a
beautiful morning despite the weather. The water turned green
shortly after Arthur Passage. Eric is using the hand held auto
pilot due to weather. Cell phones have been inadequate coverage
for over a week solid. Mel is having phone anxiety. We were
never able to get coverage in this area in Canada . We arrived
in Prince Rupert about 1:30, it was raining. Mel and Deana
took the kids for a walk while Eric unhooked the motor for the
watermaker and taxied it to a repair shop. Eric joined us for
awhile and then Mel and Deana did the provisioning while Eric
walked to the boat with the kids. Mel and Deana did a lot of
damage and still arrived at the boat at the same time. Needless
to say Eric was tired when he arrived at the boat. We went to
dinner and then Mel and Deana went to do Laundry while Eric put
the kids to bed. We didn't get to see much of Prince Rupert
today but maybe in the morning!
Thursday, July 13 Tongass Is. Cove,
Alaska (39NM) Left Prince shortly after noon at high tide
for our navigation through Venn Passage. It is extremely
shallow in points so high tide helps. The shop was able to fix
the high pressure motor for the watermaker which makes Eric very
happy! We saw a large number of fishing boats heading out. The
kids played a lot of computer games today- RJ is getting good
at simple addition. Tongass Is.cove did not have great
protection from NW winds but that did not turn out to be a
problem. We checked out the beach which was a geologic
marvel. Kelsey found a very large clam shell that had to come
back to the boat with us. Deana caught two very large starfish
in the crab pot. Not only that, but she caught them twice!
Friday, July 14 Ketchikan Alaska (50NM)
Left Tongass Island before 9am. Shortly after entering
Revillagigedo Channel the winds picked up and we sailed for
quite a while. Then the winds died and the rollers began. They
were about 4ft and hitting us on the beam so we were rocking.
RJ began to feel ill again but we kept him up top and it passed
after an hour or so. We arrived in Ketchikan at 3:15. We
promptly walked to town where 2 very large cruise ships were
tied up, so you can imagine the types of stores. We met up with
friends Bo and Cindy who are joining us for the leg to Sitka and
went and had a great dinner out (maybe the last for a week!)
Saturday July 15, We slept in a bit
and are finishing up this email, paying bills (thanks to Bo and
Cindy's mail service), cleaning and changing oil before we head
out. The next email update will not be so long as we hope to
send next week in Sitka.
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